Surf's Up and So is Real Risk?

S2 E9 Surfing a Ten Story Building -
with Big Wave Surfer Maya Gabeira

I've got surfing mates in my life now, but I never grew up with mates who were into surfing, and as much as I like hanging with my surfing mates at a pubs or other get togethers for a chat, there is no way I'll hang with them out in the ocean ... unless I'm on a boat or the beach.

I kind of get where they are coming from with their talk of that "spiritual feeling" that you get out there in the surf, but I can get that feeling anywhere on this planet just about, I don't need to risk drowning, sharks and breaking my spine getting dumped on a sand bank to get that feeling.

The Surf Gurus?

One of Occy's old boards

I guess life has just gone out of its way with me to tell me to stay out of the deep water and surf, with me nearly drowning in the surf in my late teens, when I got caught in a rip and swam against it.
And while I get your "normal" surfer's love of the sport, even if it ain't for me this time around, I don't get these surfers who surf the monster wave.

Nor do I get why you would want to dive in caves Richard, or dive in subs around a shipwreck James:-O

Real Risk: Romeo & Juliet on THAT!?